Wills Walkers
Saturday, June 10, 2023
Drumcliff, Bundoran and Belleek
Nine o'clock is always a good target for getting on the road again. We drove towards Sligo but were able to bypass the city centre and keep going, enjoying Irish scenery in all her greenness, even when it hasn't rained the whole time we've been here. Three weeks without rain in Ireland. Unheard of!
Benbulben Mountain provides a beautiful backdrop for the final resting place for W.B.Yeats, one of Ireland's most popular poets. He was awarded the Nobel Prize in literature in 1923.
Yeats left clear instructions about his tombstone. It was to say only:
'Cast a cold eye on life, on death. Horseman, pass by.' Speculation varies on what it means, with some suggestion that it was the final stanza of his poem 'Under Ben Bulben'.. Anyway, his tomb sits in a very pretty spot in the Drumcliff Churchyard. The Drumcliff Church
The door of the outside entrance to the church has two swan handles, which, when the doors are closed, face each other. These handles were donated to the church by the WB Yeats society of Western Australia in 1989. We thought they were impressive.
The mural at the front of the church is also impressive.
As we drove towards Bundoran, the Mullaghmore mountain dominated the skyline.
Bundoran is a hugely popular beach town, the Irish flock to it. It is a surfing destination and is listed as one of the top 20 surfing beaches in the world. The beach was very flat so I presume there is another beach where the surf rises in Bundoran.
This rocky outcrop is sitting just along the beach. We were overlooking it from the cliff walk on the golf course. We were amazed that there were people walking on it. Its quite high and if anyone fell they would suffer injury. Australian safety precautions wouldn't allow it!
After lunch we continued on to Belleek, taking Graham and Ammie into Northern Ireland for the first time, even if only very briefly. A visit to the pottery was on our iternary as was afternoon tea. And then we were on the last leg of our trip, to County Cavan and the farm at Corranure. It was good to be back again and see family.
And here ends the blog on our trip.
Friday, June 9, 2023
Westport and Clew Bay
Westport House with Croagh Patrick just poking its head above the trees, in the background The square in the centre of Westport. The traffic flow around these small towns is interesting to watch. To stand at an intersection with many roads joining into one, without any agro, is an art form. So when we heard cars tooting their horns, we looked around to see what was happening. A driver, I'd say a visitor to town, was entering one of these roads the wrong way, it was a one way street, and the locals were warning them, not yelling at them. Just delightful to experience. On many country lanes, reversing skills are at a premium as the lanes aren't wide enough for two vehicles, especially if one is a large tractor. The English and Irish drivers are courteous and patient. A big monument of St Patrick is significent for this area as St Patrick climbed Croagh Patrick barefooted and then fasted for 40 days while on top of the mountain. He was interceding for the souls of the people of Ireland. Allan and Graham were all geared up for their last climb of our trip but when they realised that Ammie and Joan didn't want or need to make this pilgrimage to the top of Croagh Patrick, their desire diminished. The top part of the climb is reported to be very difficult and the day was turning hot so they laid aside their longing. We found the perfect t-shirt for them - 'I nearly climbed Croagh Patrick'. A quiet day wandering around Westport, a lovely tourist town, and visiting Westport House and grounds on Clew Bay was all we needed to do.
These kids were most enthusiastic as they busked on one of the streets. And were much better than the rapper with his loud noise just down the road.
Westport House with Clew Bay in the foreground. Our accommodation was just up the road. The town was very busy and we were very happy that we walked into town as the roads were gridlocked with traffic.
Our final excursion was to take a cruise on Clew Bay which has 365 islands in it, one for every day of the year. I really did enjoy our boat ride!That's Croagh Patrick in the background. The pathway up the mountain can be clearly seen. Thousands of people climb it every year, some barefooted to identify with St Patrick.
This island was bought by John Lennon. His intention was to turn it into a nature retreat. He had a caravan delivered by boat and did stay out there. But his plans were thwarted when someone shot him. Yoko eventually sold the island and donated the proceeds to an orphanage in Ireland.
If you look really carefully you can see the church that was built on the top of Croagh Patrick, it's slightly to the left.
Looking back towards The Harbour Mill (the dark solid block of buildings with three light stripes down it), on Westport Quay, where we stayed.
Our last evening meal together before driving to the farm at Corranure. We had a laugh when we saw this photo. The platter of food was large, actually huge. As you can see, I was shocked! But we were enjoying the look on the lady's face beside us. Perhaps she should have joined us as there was enough food for her. A really great meal and lovely time together with Graham and Ammie.
Thursday, June 8, 2023
Galway and The Doolough Valley
Leaving Drumcreehy House and its lovely situation with the bay in front and the Burren behind made us comment that this accomodation had been brilliantly chosen!
Now onto Galway. I sat down on this seat with Oscar Wilde and immediately a man appeared with a big camera, offering to take my photo, but I told him my friend would take my photo. We noticed several times opportunistic people offering services at local features in town, expecting remuneration for their services. It wasn't begging but probably the next step away from it.I loved this strip of houses along the river. And then another surprise. We watched a group of men dancing riverdance along the river.
That's it for Galway. I don't think we're city people, we are always keen to leave them..
Now we're back amongst the hills and valleys of the Doolough Valley. This part of Ireland is strongly Gaelic with no reference to English on road signs which makes reading the map difficult (especially when it's Joan in the front seat with the map!) We arrived at this beautiful spot which looks like a lake but is the inlet on Killary Bay with the small village of Leenane sitting right on the edge. A great lunchtime break. The lady in the cafe said that we needed to drive the road in the opposite direction to get a full appreciation for this valley which peaked our interest. What we had just driven was gorgeous, the southern edge of The Connemara National Park. We continued on to Westport, our next three night stopover.Today we decided to follow local advice and began driving in the opposite direction. Our lonely planet book told us to watch out for the sheep on the road, which was exactly as we found them. Cute lambs tucked into rocks right beside the road or ewes slowly wandering on the road.
Doolough Valley is part of The Wild Atlantic Way. We have been following this wavey symbol for most of our journey in Ireland.
We stopped at this cross which has been erected in memory of a tragic event that occurred during the great famine, when the potato crop failed.
On a bitterly cold day in 1849, up to 600 starving people gathered in Louisburgh seeking food or a ticket to the Westport workhouse. They were told to apply to the Poor Law officials who were meeting the next day at Delphi, ten miles away. Some died overnight. The rest struggled across the mountains following sheep tracks and wading streams. When they arrived at Delphi, the Poor Law officials rose from lunch, refused to help and told them to return. No one knows how many died by the wayside of cold, hunger and exhaustion. Some were buried where they fell.
We found ourselves sobered by the knowledge of such tragic events and hardhearted men. We also reflected, as we stood by the beautiful shores of Doo Lough, that so often in history, great tragedy has happened in beautiful places.We drove further along the valley and saw the sign for Delphi Lodge so decided we would turn in. Another delightful, big house by a lake was what we found.
The gardens surrounding the house are substantial and beautiful with the mountains as a backdrop. People come here to fish in the lake, participate in many different physical activities or be pampered in the spa. We opted for lunchin the grand diningroom. Very nice.
The wild flowers growing along the roadside and down the valley make such a lovely picture, often with sheep grazing somewhere nearby.
We continued our drive, stopping frequently for photo opportunities, agreeing with our local advice that this valley is extremely beautiful.The sniper was still up to his tricks, showing the care taken to capture a shot!
Aasleagh Falls are on the River Erriff. Atlantic salmon live in the river and have to negotiate these falls to continue upstream to spawn. This means they have to jump up the falls. Graham saw one jump just after we arrived. A kindly gentleman offered to take our photo in front of the falls.
As we watched the falls to see what would happen the salmon began to jump. We saw several jump at least two metres to reach a ledge but the force of the water pushed them back down.Graham stood with his camera ready and managed to capture this salmon in its failed attempt. Only the very strong and lucky make it through.The river settled back into the calm of the valley. A delightful and very pleasant day was enjoyed by all.
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